New York Magazine: The Cheap List (July 2009)
The interior of this Williamsburg taquerÃa resembles a bunker given a funky low-budget face-lift, and its diner-style setting and service can be charitably described as no-frills. But the Mexican street food, served in tapas-style portions, is vibrantly seasoned and generally satisfying, especially anything stuffed into a corn-masa casing. This includes the gorditas, the quesadillas, and the tacos, which come one to an order on a single corn tortilla, stuffed with savory morsels of things like chipotle-stewed chicken, poblanos and cream, or mildly spicy shrimp. The house is inordinately proud of its esquites, a kind of corn-off-the-cob snack served with mayo and lime in a Dixie cup, but the real signature, to our mind, is the torta ahogado, a “drowned sandwich” of carnitas and beans on a sourdough loaf, completely drenched in chile-spiked tomato sauce. You’ll need silverware or a bib—or both.
Time Out New York: 35 best new cheap eats (July 2009)
Why we love it: Picture the best taco truck in L.A. doing it up restaurant-style in Williamsburg and you’re halfway there. Streetwise takes on tacos ($2.50–$3.50) and quesadillas ($3.50) abound, but good luck tearing yourself away from the baseball-size gorditas overflowing with mild requesón and slick, orange chorizo ($5 for two), or the exceptional sopa tarasca ($6), a traditional black bean soup punched up with ancho chili goodness.
Top picks for $10 and under: Invest in four $2.50 tacos (we’re fans of the juice-squirting carne asada and carnitas varieties), or the more dignified torta ahogada—pork confit and black beans bundled in a sourdough roll and swirled with tongue-lashing arbol sauce—for $8. 295 Berry St at South 2nd St, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-388-5988)
About the Chef
- Nacxi
- Mexico City, Mexico
- Over ten years experience in high-end restaurants. Currently works as a consultant on the Mexican culinary experience, food quality and authenticity, and recipe creation and kitchen management.
Culinary Philosophy
To shape the future, one must first understand the past. It is my interest in culture, tradition and the historical fundamentals of gastronomy has shaped my food, as well as my background understanding chemistry and physics. I am primarily interested in gastronomical transformations that cultivate development and inventiveness, and serve as a form of cultural expression.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
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